Omani silver anklet
Large and heavy Omani antique silver anklet
SILVER ANKLETS

Women are allowed to wear jewelry (unlike men) with a preference for silver. The Koran does not explicitly state golden jewelry is forbidden. However in the description of the paradise inhabitants  (Soera 76 vers 21)  silver jewelry is worn rather than gold " In the first detailed description of Oman named  "Travels in Arabia" volume 1  by Wellsted 1838 it is clear that the rich women wear golden jewelry while the majority of women wear large quantities of silver jewelry. In 1828 Jews  were forcibly driven out of Baghdad  (see Wellsted page 21) by the cruel Pacha Daud. A group of these Jewish fugitives came to Muscat and many of these were involved in the making of silver ornaments. In this period Oman was very tolerant to the Jews (and people of other religions as well) and they did not have to live in a secluded part of town neither did they have to wear a batch indicating they  were a Jew like was done in Syria and Egypt in the 1820´s. Omani antique silver anklet

Very old Omani  silver anklets

Anklets were commonly worn in the North of Oman by married women.  This is confirmed by photos / postcards taken in Muscat from around 1890-1920 in our "Oman Photos" section, showing Arab ladies wearing "Nizwa anklets"  We also see the Omani princess Bibi Salme who lived in Zanzibar (and later in Germany) on a photo dated before 1886 wearing "Nizwa anklets" that she took with her during her escape from Zanzibar in the 1860´s.  The provenance of our  above silver anklet is Zanzibar / East Africa and was taken by Germans to Europe before World-war One. Anklets are not typically worn by the Bedouin of Oman. According to Avelyn Foster in the book Disappearing Treasures of Oman 1998 p 72-73 it was customary for anklets to be give to his daughter at puberty. A father would give anklets to his daughter. The girl would then wear them until her marriage when they formed part of her dowry.

 The book "Handwerk und industrie in Ost Afrika Hamburg 1910" by Franz Stuhlmann

Includes the above photos of Omani Antal anklets

 

Youtube film: The best exhibition about Omani arts and crafts held outside Oman was held in Amsterdam in the Nieuwe Kerk 2009/2010: 

 

 

A pair of antique Omani silver Nizwa-anklets with arabesque design on the back (very old Omani jewelry)

!
Two antique Omani antal anklets form Nizwa

Very rare antique pair of very old "Nizwa anklets"  with also arabesque designs on the back of the anklet (this is only the case on very old anklets) Extremely rare find with the arabesque design on the back with the "ever turning flowers" You find this design also on early silver decorated swords, khanjars and guns from the 19th century.  

The inside is rounded and the outside has a rounded decorated "panel" This flattish side was worn on the inside towards the other leg. The anklet is opened half way the panel and fastened with a large silver pin. Measure inside 7 cm outside 12 cm. Weight 700 grams.

Antique Omani silver anklet

Arab name: Natal / Mutal  / Antal (Carter) /Hijil / Menagiri

Period: 1850-1890

Origin: Nizwa area

 References:
  1. Oman Adorned by Pauline Shelton Robert Richmond / Apex London 1997 p 116-120
  2. Stuhlmann handwerk und industrie in Ostafrika Friederichsen & Co Hamburg 1910 page 130 abbildung 73 antal anklet
  3. A tribute to Oman National day Volume X "Muscat and its custom houses" Robert Richmond. Apex page 80
  4. Disappearing treasures of Oman 1998 by Avelyn Foster p 73 fig 64
  5. Traditional silver jewelry and handicrafts from Oman 2009 by Jean Greffioz p 100 (but without the design on the back)
  6. Islamic Art in Oman page 354 (poor examples)
  7. Staatliche Museen zu Berlin, Preußischer Kulturbesitz, Ethnologisches Museum Ident.Nr. III E 4686 a,b Similar item from the collection of Karl Reinhardt Height 7 by diameter 14 cm "Ein Paar Knöchelringe, versilbert "utalli" Suaheli (comment HvW they are not silver plated but completely made of silver.)

A pair of antique Omani silver "Nizwa anklets "

!
Two Omani antal Nizwa anklets with pierced flower design in front.

A common pair of  "Nizwa anklets" with very fine pierced design in front.  The inside is rounded and the outside has a rounded decorated "panel" This flattish side was worn on the inside towards the other leg.

The anklet is opened half way the panel and fastened with a large silver pin . Total weight 770 grams. Measures: inside 6 cm outside 11 cm.

Omani silver anklet Nizwa

 

Arab names: Natal / Mutal  / Antal (Carter)

Period: 1900-1970

Origin:  Oman Nizwa. (Carter in His Tribes of Oman shows a similar set made by Abdullah bin Badr al Manthary known as the Master of Sulayf)

 References:
  1. Oman Adorned 116-120;
  2. Richardson & Dorr The craft and Heritage of Oman vol 1 222-233.J.L.
  3. Stuhlmann handwerk und industrie in Ostafrika Friederichsen & Co Hamburg 1910 page 130 abbildung 73 antal anklet
  4. Carter Tribes in Oman Peninsular publishing 1982 page 166;
  5. A tribute to Oman National day Volume X "Muscat and its custom houses" Robert Richmond. Apex page 80 ;
  6. Disappearing treasures of Oman 1998 by Avelyn Foster p 73 fig 64
  7. Traditional silver jewelry and handicrafts from Oman 2009 by Jean Greffioz p 101 but simpler design
  8. British Museum online collection number 2009,6023.53-54 Diameter 12 cm Height 6 cm Weight 749 grams combined
  9. Islamic Art in Oman page 354 poor examples
  10. Volkerenkundig Museum Leiden Inventory 5715-2330. poor example and poor description. These anklets are not made by Jewish silversmiths. Dating 1890-1950.

A single Omani silver "Zanzibar Antal Anklet " (Very large, heavy, old and rare Omani jewelry)

!
Antique Oman Omani silver Anklet

Very rare antique single large and heavy "Zanzibar anklet" came to Europe  from East Africa before  the first World-war but most probably was made in Oman. 

A very large (very heavy) silver anklet made in Jaalan or maybe Zanzibar. Weight over 700 gram for a single anklet (!). Consequently a single anklet of this type weighs as much as a pair of normal size antal!

 There are some possible stamps markings inside that could indicate the silversmith. The inside is rounded and the outside has a rounded decorated "panel"  This flattish side was worn on the inside towards the other leg.The anklet is opened half way the panel and fastened with a large silver pin .

antique Omani silver anklet

Antique Omani silver anklet

possible silver mark?

Arab names: Natal / Mutal /  Antal (Carter)/ Hijil / Menagiri

Period: 1850-1916
Origin:  maybe Zanzibar / most likely Oman ( In the Catalog of the Oman exhibition in the Nieuwe Kerk Amsterdam 2009 it is suggested that these large size anklets may have been made in India and exported to Oman and Zanzibar (no proof given)) This is also very unlikely as the designs of these very large anklets (in most cases) are the same as for the common antal. Ref 5 by Athman page 14 fig 2 on Swahili  woodcarving designs shows identical designs as on our anklet!  Stuhlmann in "Handwerk und industrie in Ostafrika 1910" (ref 3) mentions that fine silver-work (e.g. filigree) found in Zanzibar was in fact made in Oman and that only a small amount of silver was fabricated in Zanzibar itself.
References:
  1. Oman Adorned by Pauline Shelton Robert Richmond / Apex London 1997 p 116-120
  2. Richardson & Dorr The craft and Heritage of Oman vol 2 page 447 item 076
  3. Stuhlmann handwerk und industrie in Ostafrika Friederichsen & Co Hamburg 1910 page 130 abbildung 73 antal anklet
  4. A tribute to Oman National day Volume X "Muscat and its custom houses" Robert Richmond. Apex page 80
  5. British Museum (Harold Ingrams collection) museum number 2012,6030.2 Similar weight and same design / similar decoration purchased in Zanzibar 1920´s see on-line collection BM weight 748 grams, height 7.8 cm, width 13 cm. Heavy silver hinged anklet (mutal or natal) hollow and tubular body with a wide rectangular front section. Appears to be filled with black pitch or resin, significantly increasing its weight. Entirely decorated with intricate chased and punched designs including hatched lines, circles, and floral, vegetal and geometric motifs. The anklet is designed to open from the front and its clasp is locked with a solid silver pin that is decorated with chased lines on its head. These types of anklets were worn in paired sets usually by girls and women of central and northern Oman and Zanzibar.
  6. Athman H. Athman STYLES OF SWAHILI CARVING, AAP 47 (1996) 11-29

A pair of Antique Omani silver "Sur anklet" Scarce piece of Omani jewelry.

!
Antique Oman silver Sur anklet

A scarce pair of "Sur anklets" You can see that these are smaller and narrower than the "Nizwa anklets" Also the designs are very different Also the fastening pin is connected to the anklet.

Rare to find good examples of this Omani silver jewelry.   Hinged with chased and pierced decoration.  Rose and curled leaf pattern. According to Carter these are one of the few pieces that sometimes have a silver-mark ( 50/9 and NBRWT or Th)? Total Weight 440 grams. Size outside 10 cm

Antique Omani silver Anklet

Arab names: Mutal / Antal (Carter) / Heyoul

Period: 1900-1960

Origin: Oman  Sur and the Sharqiyah region. according to Carter they are from the Sharqiyah area of Oman ref 3 page 113

 References:
  1. Oman Adorned by Pauline Shelton Robert Richmond / Apex London 1997 page 120;
  2. Richardson & Dorr The craft and Heritage of Oman vol 2 page 447 item 74;
  3. J.L. Carter Tribes in Oman Peninsular publishing 1982 page 113 / 166 ;
  4. Disappearing treasures of Oman 1998 by Avelyn Foster page 74 fig 65
  5. Silver jewellery of Oman by Jehan S Rajab 1997 p 31
  6. Traditional silver jewelry and handicrafts from Oman 2009 by Jean Greffioz page 104
  7. Ethnic Jewellery from Africa, Asia and the Pacific Islands The René van der Star Collection  2002 Amsterdam Pepin Press page 68
  8. British Museum on-line collection number 2009,6023.71-72 Weight 421 grams Diameter 11 cm height 4 cm
  9. Wereld Museum Rotterdam has a similar set of anklets. h 5,5 x l 10,3 x br 8,6 x d 2,3 cm gewicht: 431 gr. Ex collection Smith / Hutschenruyter. Inventory 77047. De asymmetrische versiering op de voorkant door het weglaten van versiering aan een zijde is eigen voor dit type enkelband uit Sur, maar is bijzonder wanneer vergeleken met andere etnische sieraden.
  10. Volkerenkudig Museum Leiden Inventory 5715-2329 Poor description. These anklets are not made by Jewish silversmiths.

Antique Omani silver "round anklet" (very rare and very old Omani jewelry)

!
Rare antique Omani silver anklets named Mutal

Extremely Rare antique pair of old  "round Anklets",  that can also be opened on the front.  The front half has a beautiful arabesque design, often associated with Nizwa. However the shape is more associated with Sur (see previous anklets)

 Extremely rare type. Note that the inside is also rounded. Round Omani anklets with a flat inside also exist.

The British Museum has a very similar set from Zanzibar (but half the weight) Collected by Harold Ingrams in the 1920´s and donated by his daughter Leila Ingrams.  Harold Ingrams was the author of an important book on Zanzibar. In the slide-show you can see that this very old anklet also has a fine emblem on the backside! Total weight 220 grams. Diameter outside 8,5cm.

 

Antique Omani silver anklet

Antique Omani silver anklet

 

Arab name: Mutal

Period:1850-1900

Origin: Omani from the town of Nizwa/Sur or Zanzibar  This set of bracelets was purchased in Nizwa.

 References:
  1. Oman Adorned by Pauline Shelton  Robert Richmond / Apex London 1997  p 121
  2. Zanzibar its History and its people  by W.H. Ingrams 1931 (reprinted in 1967).
  3. British Museum Harold  Ingrams collection See on-line collection number 2012, 6030.4a-b purchased in Zanzibar in the 1920´s. Combined weight 109 grams, height 3 cm  diameter 7,5 cm

Single antique Omani silver "Baluchi" anklet (very old Omani jewelry )

!
Antique Omani silver anklet, Baluchi design

Rare finely decorated Omani Baluchi anklet must be treated with caution, as these anklets seem to have been more widely worn , principally along the Batinah coast rather than in the interior , but by both Arab and Baluchi women.

 Note old pieces have a sharp outer edge. Baluchi  Anklet (one only) Very fine and sharp designs. This item was bought from an antique dealer nick-named "the cat man" (see slide-show) in the Muttrah souq. He was nick-named as such because he fed dozens of street cats around his shop. The "cat-men" used to have in the past  occasionally very old Baluchi anklets of high quality.  Measures: inside 7 cm outside 13 cm. Weight: 250 gram

Antique Omani silver anklet

 antique Omani silver anklet
 

Arab names: Hajul / Hagul

Period:1850-1920

Origin:  Oman: Batinah region (designs suggest  Baluchi influence) or Zanzibar. Carter ref 3 page 113  thought it may originate form Zanzibar.

References:
  1. Oman Adorned by Pauline Shelton  Robert Richmond / Apex London 1997  p 121-122
  2. Jehan S Rajab Silver Jewelery of Oman p 17; p 56
  3. J.L. Carter Tribes in Oman Peninsular publishing 1982 page 113
  4. British Museum on-line collection number 2009,6023.107-108 Weight 237 and 222 grams Dated as 1950's, but in my view older. Pair of silver crescent-shaped anklets (hajul); tubular and hollow with intricate floral stamped and chased decoration. Small stones inside the hollow anklets rattle with the movement of the wearer. The ends of the anklets (near the open gap) include small fish motifs which appear as the eyes on stylised snakes' heads believed to ward off the evil eye

Pair of small antique Omani silver "Baluchi anklets" for a child (old pieces of Omani jewelry)

!
Antique Omani silver Baluchi anklets

Scarce pair of small Baluchi Anklets for a child. Note: The old pieces have a sharp outer edge. Pair of antique Baluchi anklets. The name Baluchi anklets (Hajul or Hagul) must be treated with caution, as these anklets seem to have been more widely worn , principally along the Batinah coast rather than in the interior , but by both Arab and Baluchi women.

However their origin seems to be that they were worn by Baluchi women when dancing.  They often contain pieces of gravel which rattle when the wearer moves. The sides are often beautifully engraved with floral and geometric patterns The decoration often contains an "evil Eye" or "fish" design towards the ends.  Total weight 220 grams grams. Measures: inside 6 cm outside 10 cm.

Arab names:Hajul / Hagul

Period: 1850-1920

Origin: Oman Batinah (Baluchi)

References:
  1. Oman Adorned by Pauline Shelton  Robert Richmond / Apex London 1997  p 121-122
  2. Jehan S Rajab Silver Jewellery of Oman p17; p56
  3. Traditional silver jewelry and handicrafts from Oman 2009 by Jean Greffioz p105

Pair of very large antique Omani silver "Baluchi anklets" Rare Omani jewelry.

!
Antique Omani silver Baluchi anklets

Baluchi  Anklets (pair) Very large. On one side with heart and spade symbols.  Rare pair of large antique Omani Baluchi anklets .

The name Baluchi anklets (Hajul or Hagul) must be treated with caution, as these anklets seem to have been more widely worn , principally along the Batinah coast rather than in the interior , but by both Arab and Baluchi women. However their origin seems to be that they were worn by Baluchi women when dancing. They often contain pieces of gravel which rattle when the wearer moves. The sides are often beautifully engraved with floral and geometric patterns. Carter suggests possible Zanzibar origin. Total Weight 720 grams. Measures: diameter 16 cm outside

Antique Omani silver ankletAntique Omani silver anklet

Antique Omani silver anklet

Arab names: Hajul / Hagul

Period:1920-1950

Origin:  Oman Batinah (Baluchi influence) or Zanzibar. Carter ref 2 page 113 thought it may originate from Zanzibar

References:  
  1. Oman Adorned by Pauline Shelton Robert Richmond / Apex London 1997 p 121-122
  2. J.L. Carter Tribes in Oman Peninsular publishing 1982 page 113
  3. Disappearing treasures of Oman 1998 by Avelyn Foster page 75 fig 66
  4. Ethnic Jewellery from Africa, Asia and the Pacific Islands 2002 Amsterdam Pepin Press p 61
  5. Islamic Art in Oman The design of hearts, spades etc. also occur in the design of the ceiling in Jabrin see page 150 top left
  6. The National Museum of Oman Highlights published by Scala Arts & Heritage publishers in  2016 page 51 Shows similar anklet on the photo, bottom right.

Antique Omani silver anklet or bracelet. Vvery rare and very old Omani jewelry.

!
Antique Omani silver anklet

Very rare single unusual Omani anklet or bracelet with two bosses. Made of high quality thin silver.  The opening mechanism differs from other Omani anklets with only a portion of the anklet that can open (maybe a bracelet)

Weight 70 grams. Diameter inside 5 cm and outside 9 cm.

The slide-show contains an 1847  photo by Guillain (part of the collection of Musee du Quai Branly in Paris  ) showing the niece of the governor of Zanzibar wearing a similar bracelet on her right arm and on the left arm a  spiked bracelet. 

 

Similar bracelet  on arm of Zanzibar child

 

Name: "Antique Omani silver anklet or bracelet from Dhofar"

Period:1850-1900

Origin: Oman Dhofar? or Zanzibar

References:

  1. Guillain Voyage a la cote orientale d´Afrique execute pendant les annees 1846, 1847, 1848. Sous le commandement  de M. Guillain capitage de fregate. Publie par ordre du gouvernement.

Pair antique Omani silver bossed anklets or bracelets

!
Antique Omani silver bossd Bracelet named banagiri muschawwaka.

Common bossed bracelets / anklets banagiri muschawwaka. Matching pair.  Bossed bracelets of one sort or another were worn throughout Oman.

Some believe that these were originally fertility anklets, with the bosses representing breasts.  These anklets / bracelets were typically worn by married women or girls form the age of fourteen.

The slide-show contains an 1847  photo by Guillain (part of the collection of Musee du Quai Branly in Paris  ) showing the niece of the governor of Zanzibar wearing a similar spiked bracelet on her left arm. 

Antique Omani silver anklets

Arab names: Banagiri muschawwaka  (from shok, thorn or spike); Named Suwriy bracelet according to Carter ref 8  page 113

Period:1840-1970

Origin: Oman: Maybe Sur as they only have bracelets with spikes. Probably explains term Suwriy bracelet by Carter.

 References:
  1. Oman Adorned by Pauline Shelton  Robert Richmond / Apex London 1997  p 111 ;
  2. Disappearing treasures of Oman 1998 by Avelyn Foster p 76 fig 70 ;
  3. Silver the traditional Art of Oman 2000 (new edition) Ruth Hawley p 21 
  4. Silver jewellery of Oman by Jehan S Rajab 1997 p 32
  5. Arab & Islamic Silver by Saad Al-Jadir 1981   Stacey International  p 123 left
  6. Ethnic Jewelery from Africa, Asia and the Pacific Islands 2002 Amsterdam Pepin Press p 60
  7. British Museum online collection number 2012.6010.2 diameter 5.6 cm Height 4 cm weight 111 grams each Similar reg 2012,6010.1 Diameter: 6.6 centimetres Height: 3.5 centimetres Weight: 110 grammes
  8. Carter Tribes in Oman Peninsular publishing London 1982
  9. Oman and its Renaissance  by Sir Donald Hawley Stacey International London 1987 page 101 shows Bedu ladies wearing similar bracelets.
  10. Traditional silver jewelry and handicrafts from Oman by Jean Greffioz 2009 (privately published) page 85 fig 5.2 has photo with a similar item.